Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.